How is a beach built up? Of course we know that the Ogunquit River helps feed the sand off shore as the tide goes out.
With the sand offshore, what happens next? This diagram shows how the sand moves in the water, on the beach and behind the beach.
Large waves occasionally move sand towards the beach and when they do, they move large quantities.
Closer to the beach the sand movement is an every day affair and in the breaker zone huge quantities are moved almost every hour. As waves move sand towards the beach, gravity and back-wash move some of it back again.
Gradually, more sand is deposited on the beach, although in big storms, the large waves and rain can take a lot of beach sand back out in the ocean where the process can begin slowly begin again.
Next time you walk on the beach, think about this process that has given us one of the finest beaches in Maine.